608 
75 
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COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS 

United States Department of Agriculture and State 
Agricultural Colleges Cooperating 



Insect Enemies and Diseases 
of the Tomato 




UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 
' DEPARTMENT CIRCULAR 40 



Contribution from the States Relations Service 
( OflBce of Extension Work South) 

A. C. TRUE. Director 



Washington, D. C. 



June. 1919 



^09 



^^jST 



CLUB MEMBERS ueed and have asked for sim- 
ple, reliable instructions for controlling the 
insect pests and diseases which come to the plants 
in their club gardens. These instructions are writ- 
ten to aid the club girls of the Southern States in 
preventing or controlling the damage done ])y these 
enemies of their gardens. 

Since the different types of insects and diseases 
require widely varying treatment, the instructions in 
thi^ bulletin are given in detail. Preventive meas- 
ures are most important, and each club girl will do 
well to study the instructions carefully in order 
that she may intelligently care for her tenth-acre 
plot. 

Further information on diseases and insects can 
be secured from Farmers' Bulletin 856, Control of 
Diseases and Insect Enemies of the Home Vegetable 
Garden. 



vcSS 



NOV 1 7 1933 

CWiSlON Of 00CUHENT8 



Insect Enemies and Diseases of the Tomato 



To Canning Club Members : 

You have already received Circular A-97 — in which you were told 
liow to select and prepare your tenth acre, how to make hotbeds, 
cold frames, and seed boxes, and how to transplant, fertilize, and 
cultivate tomatoes. 

You may, during the season, have trouble with tomato diseases. 
At the same time that you try to prevent diseases, it will be neces- 
sary to look out for insect pests which may do great harm. Then, 
too, you can fight insect pests and tomato diseases at the same time. 
You must understand that you can much more easily and cheaply 
take steps to keep your plants healthy than you can cure them 
after they become diseased. In fact, if the soil in which you plant 
your vegetables is infected with some of these diseases, you can not 
hope to have healthy plants. It is too late to apply remedies after 
you see the trouble. You have already been told not to use soil for 
hotbeds or cold frames in which diseased tomatoes grew last year. 

INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE TOMATO. » 

From the time tomatoes are set in the gardens until the fruit has 
ripened, they are subject to attack by injurious insects. The prin- 
cipal of these are cutworms, flea-beetles, blister beetles, stalk-borers, 
plant-lice, red spider, and white fly. 

CUTWORMS. 

Among insects most to be feared and of those which attack the 
plants when they are first set out are cutworms (fig. 1) of various 
kinds. 

These smooth, plump, gray or brownish caterpillars conceal them- 
selves during the day underground near the plants attacked, emerg- 
ing toward evening to feed. The usual method of attack is to cut off 
the plant near the surface of the ground. They cut off and destroy 
more than they eat and resetting is frequently necessary. One cut- 
worm can destroy many more plants in a single night than it can 
devour. 

Control. — Cutworms are not difficult to control, the best method 
being the use of poisoned bait or poisoned bran mash. The follow- 
ing formula is used : 

White arsenic pound, 14 

Sirup or molasses pint, 1 

Water quarts, 4-6 

Dry bran peck, 1 



^ Prepared by F. H. Chittenden, Entomologist in Charge, Truck Crop Insect 
Investigations, Bureau of Entomology. 

8 



Thoroughly mix the arsenic in a peck of dry bran. Stir into 4 
to 6 quarts of water a pint of cheap sirup or molasses. After this 
has been made up into a mash, let it stand for several hours to allow 
the bran to take up the arsenic. 

Scatter the mash thinly along the rows or about the bases of the 
plants to be protected as soon as the cutworms appear. It is bet- 
ter ito make the application well toward evening, or at dusk, since 




Fig. 1. — Greasy cutworm below; moth above — somewhat enlarged. 
This moth is distinguished from similar ones by a niark on each 
.upper wing resembling' the capital Greek letter upsUon. 

cutworms feed at night or on dull, cloudy days, and fresh bait is 
more attractive. If cutworms reappear, repeat two or three times 
at short intervals of 3 or 4 days to a week. 

Caution. — Keep the younger children, live stock, and chickens 
away from the bait, as it is poisonous. With proper care there is no 
danger. 

FLEA-BEETLES. 

Flea-beetles (fig. 2) are important enemies of tomatoes, attacking 
the plants soon after they are set and again later in the season. 
They riddle the leaves of young and tender plants with small holes, 
causing the leaves to die and weakening the plants. They derive 




their name from the fact that they take long, 
quick leaps like a flea, being also of about the size 
of these little insects and dark in color. 

Control. — Spray the plants thoroughly, both on 
the upper and under sides of leaves, with Bor- 
deaux mixture, as this acts as a repellent, literally 
keeping them away. Wild plants of the potato 
kind such as ground cherry plants, should be 
pulled and destroyed throughout tlie season so as 
to leave no breeding places for the flea-beetles. In- 
jury can also be prevented by dipping the young 
plants before setting, in a solution of arsenate of lead at the rate 
of 10 level teaspoonfuls to a gallon of water. 

BLISTER BEETLES. 

Blister beetles (fig. 3) are common farm pests and are very de- 
structive to tomatoes and other vegetables. They are ravenous 
feeders and travel frequently in lines, or following the rows of 



Fig. 2. — Potato flea- 
beetle. Size shown 
by line at right. 






Fig. 3.' — Adult blister beetles, enlarged : Left, black blister beetle 
glned blister beetle ; right, striped blister beetle. 



middle, mar- 



plants, eating everything in their path, chewing up apparently more 
than they need for food. They are large beetles, slender in form, 
somewhat soft-bodied, and variously colored. Some kinds are black, 
some yellow with black stripes, some are gray, and others are gray, 
spotted with black. Blister beetles are particularly abundant in the 
Southwest, but occur practically everywhere. They usually begin to 
appear in early midsummer after the plants have made about one- 
third growth, and some kinds continue until late in the season. 

Control. — A spray of arsenate of lead, 10 level teaspoonfuls of 
powder to 1 gallon of water, applied at the very outset of attack, 
is the -best remedy. Hand-picking is somewhat dangerous, as the 
blister beetles are likely to form blisters on delicate skin. They are 
extremely active, dropping quickly from the foliage. On this ac- 
count they are easily knocked into large pans containing a little 
water and a few drops of kerosene which kills every beetle it touches. 
This remedy is especially valuable on well-grown plants. 

TOMATO HOBNWOKMS. 

The tomato horn worms (fig. 4) or tobacco worms, are large, green 
caterpillars, the young of large gray humming-bird moths with rows 




Fig. 4. — One of the tomato hornworms: a, moth; h, larva; c, pupa. 

of yellow spots on the body. These moths produce two broods a 
year, and when the caterpillars begin to mature they cut all the 
leaves from tomato plants, and even gnaw and destroy the green 
fruit. Growers should be on the lookout for the first as well as the 
second brood. They appear at various times, according to locality. 
Control. — Hand-picking can be practiced, but it takes a sharp 
eye to detect these worms when they are at rest. When feeding 

they are more easily seen and 
can be destroyed readily. A 
single spraying with arsenate 
of lead at the rate of 54 
pound to 3 gallons of water, 
will destroy them when 
properly applied. Those 
which eat the poison first 
will be found dead the fol- 
lowing day, the remainder on 
the second and third day. 

TOMATO FRUITWOKM. 

The tomato fruitworm (fig. 
5) is the same insect as the 
bollworm of cotton and the 
corn earworm, and is the 
cause of much trouble to to- 
mato growers because of its 
eating into the ripening fruit 
„. , . ,. , . ., and destroying its market 

-Characteristic work of the •. i^ o 

tomato fruitworm. ValUC. 




Fio. 5. 



Control. — Arsenate of lead, }i pound to 3 gallons of water, sprayed 
on the leaves two or three times will keep the insect partly under 
control. As long as sweet corn is growing nearby it attracts the 
worms, and thus protects the tomatoes. Hand-picking is difficult 
for large gardens and must be practiced almost daily for small 
patches. 

STAIK-BOBER. 

Tomato plants may sometimes be noticed to wilt down almost 
over night, without apparent cause. Examination of such plants 
often reveals near one of the joints of the stalk a small, round hole, 
the entrance to a burrow occupied by an insect. On splitting the 
stalk (fig. 6) a slender striped caterpillar will be disclosed. This 
pest is known as the stalk-borer. 




Fig. 6. — The common stalk-borer: a, typical form of moth (male) ; b, nitela form 
(female) ; c, young larva; d, mature larva in injured stalk; e, pupa. All some- 
what enlarged. 

Control.— The stalk-borer usually breeds in the stems of ragweed 
and burdock and when these are cut or hoed out during tlie grow- 
ing season it deserts them, often coming upon tomato and other 
crops planted for human use. This points out the most effective 
method of control — prevention by clean culture. The weeds men- 
tioned should not be allowed to grow in or near the tomato garden 
and should be kept down during the season. When borers are 
found they should be killed, as they may injure a number of plants 
before reaching full growth. Spraying with arsenicals for other 
insects which may be present may also protect plants somewhat 
against this pest, but it is not a specific remedy. 

PLANT-I.ICE. 

Two forms of plant-lice or aphides (fig. 7), known respectively as 
the potato aphis and the spinach aphis have in recent years become 




s 

extremely destructive to 
tomatoes in the north- 
western part of the 
United States. The po- 
tato aphis, often called 
-\J\^ the tomato aphis, is one 

of our largest forms of 
plant-lice. It is of vari- 
able color, usually of a 
A^y^ V pinkish tinge, although 

some individuals are 
J green. It measures 

about Yg of an inch and 
has honey tubes which 
^ extend beyond the tip 

Pig. 7.— An aphid: a, winged adult aphis; b, of the body, long ICgS 
young nymph; c, older nymph; d, last stage -i faa^f^-ra Tha aninaoh 

of nymph, or pupa. Greatly enlarged. ^"^ leeieis. lue hpiudtii 

aphis, while very trou- 
blesome on potatoes and tomatoes, attacks many other crops, is 
smaller, and has a much wider distribution, being found practically 
everywhere in the United States. 

Aphides subsist by sucking the vital juices of the plants, and are 
usually found on the underside of the leaves, where they gather in 
large colonies, and frequently on the buds and tips of the young 
growing plants. Sometimes they appear to cover all parts of the 
plant. Through the two honey tubes protruding from the back of 
the plant-lice, a sweet, honey-like liquid is secreted. Ants are very 
fond of this liquid and often'keep the plant-lice as their ''milk cows," 
carrying them from one plant to another. It is, therefore, well to 
look for ants and destroy their nests in the vicinity of plants cov- 
ered with plant-lice or aphides. 

Control. — These and similar pests can positively not be destroyed 
by arsenical poison. What are known as contact insecticides or 
those which kill by touching the body, are the best, and of these 
dO per cent nicotine sulphate combined with soap and applied as a 
spray has proved more satisfactory than any other. The formula 
follows : 

Nicotine sulphate (40 per cent) teaspoonful, 1 

Soap, laundry 1-inch cube, 1 

Water gallon, 1 

Directions are also furnished on the package. 

Dissolve the soap in the water, add the nicotine sulphate, and ap- 
ply as a fine mist-like spray to the lower sides of the leaves, being 
careful to hit or cover all of the ''lice." Use an under spray. 

BED SPIDER. 

Tomatoes, and nearly all vegetables, are subject to attacK by the 
red spider (fig. 8). This pest is not a true spider, but a reddish 
mite of almost microscopic size.^ It is well distributed throughout 
the country, and is particularly troublesome on tomatoes, cucumbers, 
and beans." This mite injures plants by sucking the juices, and when 
plants are neglected tiiey become so weakened by loss of sap 
that the crop is greatly reduced. In cases of severe attack, mil- 
lions of red spiders gather on the underside of the foliage, and the 




Fig. 8. — Red spider, 
highly magnified. 



webs which the insect spins from leaf to leaf can 
be easily seen, with the mites passing rapidly over 
them in swarms. Frequently the plants look as 
though scorched by fire. More often than not the 
red spiders are present without the grower's 
knowing it, "rust" being blamed for the injury. 

Control. — A spray made with 1 pound of laun- 
dry soap in 8 gallons of water, applied frequently 
to the underside of the leaves, will hold the pest 
in check. Flowers of sulphur mixed with water 
at the rate of 1 ounce to 1 gallon, sprayed over in- 
fested plants, is a good remedy. Unless the spray- 
ing is begun when the insects are first noticed and 
repeated as often as needed, red spiders are almost 
certain to do great harm to delicate plants, since 
if the plants become thoroughly infested they sel- 
dom survive and the crop is lost. 

WHITE FL.Y. 

White flies (fig. 9) frequently cause injury to the tomato, both in 
the garden and greenhouse. They are tiny white moth-like insects, 

1/16 of an inch long, and usually attract 
attention through their habit of flying 
into the air Avhen the plant on which they 
are feeding is disturbed. Examination of 
the plants will show numerous small 
scale-like whitish objects attached to the 
underside of the leaf — the larvae or young 
of the white fly. The injury caused by 
this pest, which at times becomes so nu- 
merous as to cover nearly the entire 
lower surface of the foliage, results from 
the continual drain on the sap of the plant 
on which the insect subsists. The leaves 
first assume a lighter color, becoming yel- 
lowed as attack progresses, until death of 
the tissues takes place, and the leaf be- 
comes dry. In addition, a small amount 
of a sweet liquid called honeydew is se- 
creted by the insects, which, dropping on 
the foliage beneath, acts as a medium for 
the growth of molds and fungi. 

Control. — ^Whale-oil (fish-oil) soap at 

^ wingeT'To^m al^o^.'-iir* ^he rate of 1 pouud to 8 gallons of water, 

va" or scalelike form be- sprayed thoroughly on the underside of 

low. reat y en arge . ^j^^ leavcs, will dcstroy nearly all of the 

larvae. A solution of laundry soap at the same rate is nearly as 

effective. It must not be forgotten that these insecticides must 

be brought into contact with the bodies of the insects to kill them. 

TOMATO DISEASES.^ 

The principal tomato diseases in the South are tomato wilt, early 
blight, root-knot, sclerotium blight, southern tomato blight, leaf 

1 Prepared by "W. A. Orton. Pathologist in charge, Cotton, Truck, and Forage 
Crop Disease Investigations, Bureau of Plant Industry. 





10 



spot, downy mildew, blossom end rot, and anthracnose, or ripe rot. 
Not all of these are likely to occur in any one field, and even those 
that usually do appear can often be prevented or reduced by using 
a little care in selecting the field and in controlling conditions in 
the seed bed. 

SEi-ECTION or THE GROUND. 

Much of the land around farm buildings in the South is infected 
with diseases like root-knot and wilt. Therefore your first care 
should be to make a clean start by selecting land you believe to be 
free from disease. As a general rule, do not plant tomatoes in the 
same soil oftener than once in three years. Find out what crop 
was on the land last year and look out for diseases of other plants 
which may also infect tomatoes. One of the most serious of these 
is root-knot, which occurs in sandy soils. You can. tell it by the 
knots or galls on the roots. Do not plant your tomatoes where any 
crop was infected "with root-knot last year. 

CARE OF THE SEEDBED. 

A number of diseases appearing on tomatoes in the field originate 
from the seedbed. They are introduced in the field at the time 
of transplanting. It is therefore especially important to grow the 
seedlings in as healthy condition as possible. The following pre- 
cautions should be observed. 

1. Whenever possible make the seedbed on new soil or at least 
on soil which did not grow a crop of tomatoes the previous year. 

2. Avoid the use of fresh manure. 

3. Do not crowd the plants in the seedbed. 

4. Spray the plants in the seedbed at least once, witli a weak 
(2:2:50) solution of Bordeaux. 

5. Remove and burn all diseased plants. 

6. Avoid the use of plants for transplanting which show a spot- 
ting of the leaves, and particularly those which have knotted or 
swollen roots. 

DA3IPING OFF. 

Have you had trouble with your tomato seedlings in the seedbed? 
If the young i>lants shrivel at the soil line, fall over and die, they are 
affected by the disease called "Damping oft'" (fig. 10), caused by 

molds in the soil and made 
worse by overwatering 
and lack of ventilation. 

It will help to prevent 
this if you will pour boil- 
ing water over the soil in 
the boxes or frames, using 
5 gallons per cubic foot, 2 
to o quarts for an 8-inch 
pot. Do this a day or two 
before planting. While the 
plants are in the seedbed, 
give them plenty of air 
and sunlight, stir the sur- 
face of the soil slightly, 
_ ,„ ^ . ^ ^ ^ ,„ and do not overwater or 

Fig. 10. — Damping off of tomato seedlings. i j. j-i j ^ . 

Stems shriveling and dying at the soil line. let tnem dry OUt. 




11 















* - 



". *»"■'>■. -*.* 






Fig. 11. — Tomato wilt. 

TOiMATO WILT. 

Tomato wilt (fig. 11) is caused by u mold-like fungus that lives 
in the soil and infects the plants through their roots. Wilting, 
yellowing of the leaves, and a slow death of the plants are the results 
of attack. 

Control. — Use either land tliat is free from wilt or wilt- resistant 
varieties. 




Fig. 12. — Early blight of tomato, showing infection of leaves, stems, and fruit. 
Leaves covered with brown spot shrivel and die. 



12 




Fig. 13. — Root knot of tomato. Small knots 
at base of stem ; large thickened roots 
below. 

are not attacked by the 
root knot, such as Iron 
cowpeas, corn, oats, velvet 
beans, and peanuts. 

SCL,EROTIUM BLIGHT. 

Sclerotium blight (fig. 
14) is caused by a fungus 
which attacks the plant at 
or near the surface of the 
ground and causes rotting 
of the root. It also at- 
tacks branches that lie 
upon the ground. On the 
affected parts grows a 
white mold covered by 
small white to reddish- 
brown bodies about the size 
of mustard seed. These are 
dense masses of . fungus 
called sclerotia from which 
the disease takes its name. 

Control. — Prune and 
stake the plants to aerate 
and dry the surface soil 
and keep the branches off 
the ground. 



EABLY BI/IGHT. 

Early blight (fig. 12) af- 
fects leaves, stems, and fruit. 
On the fruit it is called nail 
head rust. It is often de- 
veloped in the seedbed and 
carried to the field on the 
plants. 

Control. — Spray the plants 
in the seedbed with weak 
(2 : 2 : 50) Bordeaux mixture 
and set in the field only 
plants that are free from the 
disease. If after these pre- 
cautions the disease develops 
in the field, spray as directed 
under Spraying Tomatoes. 

ROOT KNOT. 

Root knot (fig. 13) is 
caused by very tiny worms 
called nematodes, which at- 
tack cotton, cowj)eas, melons, 
okra, beets, tomatoes, pota- 
toes, and other plants. Soil 
can be freed from this pest 
only by planting it for two 
or three years in crops which 




Fic. 14. — Sclerotium blight of tomato, 
and decay of stem at surface of 



Infection 
'round. 



13 



SOUTHERN TOMATO BLIGHT. 

Southern tomato blight is somewhat similar to tomato wilt, but 
it kills the plant more quickly. In fact the whole crop may be jie- 
stroyed within a few 
days. In both these 
diseases there is a 
darkening of the stem 
just under the bark, 
but in the case of to- 
mato wilt this area is 
dark-brown to black 
while in southern to- 
mato blight it is yel- 
low. 

The disease is 
caused by a bac- 
t e r i u m which is 
spread by insects. 

Control. — Burn in- 
fected plants and 
spray the others witli 
Bordeaux mixture 
containing % per 
cent of lead arsenate. 

LEAF SPOT. 

Leaf spot (fig. 15) 
is a fungus disease, 
causing small, circu- „ ^ „ . . ^.r . • , 

1 '^. .,, ,. , , Fig. 15. — Leaf spot of tomato. Note size, shape, and 

lar spots with light color of spots. 





Fig. 16. — Field of tomatoes ruined by leaf spot. Stems bare except at the tips. 



14 




Fig. 



17 Downv miUlew of tomatoes, showing infec- 
tion of the lower leaves. 



DOWNY MILDEW. 



centers and dark 
borders, on tlie leaves, 
and gray spots on the 
stems. Infected 
leaves dry up and fall 
off, leaving the stems 
bare (fig. 16) except 
at the tips where a 
few small leaves con- 
tinue to grow. 

Control. — Burn all 
plants affected by the 
disease in the seed- 
bed, and transplant 
only healthy plants 
to the field.' If leaf 
spot attacks the 
plant in the field and 
is unusually destruc- 
tive, spray twice at 
intervals of a week 
and three times at in- 
tervals of ten days 
with Bordeaux mix- 
ture. 



Downy mildew is 
caused by a fungus 
which spreads only in 
cool, moist weather. 
Figure 17 shows an 
early stage of the dis- 
ease on the lower leaves. 
It first appears as irreg- 
ular, blackened areas, 
wliich result in the 
death of the parts. 
Often the disease kills 
the j)lants so rapidly 
that it gives them a 
frost -stricken appear- 
ance. It also affects the 
fruit (figs. 18 and 19), 
first as a water-soaked 
area near the stem end, 
and later as a blackened 
area within the fruit. 
The most effective rem- 
edy is the Bordeaux 
spray. 




Fig. 18. — Downy mildew on tomato fruit, 
dium late stage. 



Me- 



15 



BI.OSSOM.END KOT. 

Blossom - end rot 
(fig. 20 j is a diseased 
condition of the blos- 
som end of the fruit. 
It is most common in 
dry weather, especial- 
ly after a period of 
rapid growth. The 
most successful meth 
od of overcoming it 
is to water the soil. 





Fig. 20. — Blossom-end rot. 



Fig. 19. — Downy mildew of tomato fruit. Disease 
spreading inward. 



ANTHKACNOSE. 

Anthracnose, or ripe rot 
( fig. 21 ) , of tomato fruit is 
caused by a fungus which 
produces sunken spots with 
dark centers and water- 
soaked borders on the sur- 
face and soft areas in the 
interior. The only means of 
controlling it are preven- 
tive. Diseased fruits should 
be gathered and burned or 
buried so deeply that they 
will not be brought to the 
surface again. 



SPRAYING TOMATOES. 

Your decision as to 
whether or not you 
will spray your to- 
matoes will depend 
on the danger from 
leaf blights (early 
blight, southern to- 
mato blight, leaf spot, 
and downy mildew), 
which are as a rule 
more prevalent in the 
upper districts. If 
you spray, get the 
proper equipment 
and do it thoroughly. 




Fig. 21. — Anthracnose, or rip© rot. 



16 



To get the best results, spraying, with Bordeaux mixture should be be- 
gun while the plants are young. Spray once about five days before 
transplanting, then again five days after transplanting, and repeat 
every ten days until the fruit is fully grown. A hard rain will fre- 
quently wash off the mixture and make it necessary to spray again. 
Five sprayings should be given during the season. Ten gallons of 
spray mixture will be necessary for each sprajdng. Five pounds of 
blue-stone and five pounds of fresh stone lime will be enough for the 
season. Secure these supplies at the beginning of the season. Have 
the blue-stone divided into five 1-pound lots. The entire quantity 
of lime may be slaked at the beginning by adding water slowly until 
all the lumps are slaked. Keep this slaked lime in a bucket with a 
little water over it. As long as it is covered with water it is good, 
but if it is exposed to the air it will dry out and become air-slaked. 
Lime which has been air-slaked can not be used in Bordeaux mixture. 

Bordeaux mixture — How to make it for each spraying. 

Copper sulphate (blue-stone) pound, 1 

Quick lime (stone lime ) pound, 1 

Water gallons, 10 

Blue-stone solution : Ptit 5 gallons of water in a wooden tub, tie 
the blue-stone in a coarse sack, and hang it in this water near the 

top. Do not use a 
metal vessel because 
the action of the 
blue-stone on the 
metal will ruin the 
vessel and make the 
solution worthless. 
Allow several hours 
for the blue-stone to 
dissolve. This will 
take place more 
quickly in hot wa- 
ter. 

Lime solution : 
Take one-fifth of the 
lime which has been 
slaked by water and 
mix it thoroughly 
in 5 gallons of wa- 
ter. 

Mixing : Bordeaux 
mixttire is made out 
of equal parts of 
these two solutions. 
It is important that 
tltey be carefully 
mixed, and that only as much of the mixture be made as can be used 
at one spraying. Have the lime solution in one vessel and the cop- 
per sulphate solution in another. Have ready a third tub or other 
wooden vessel. Stir the solution well before using. Let two people 




Fig. 22. 



-One of several kinds of compressed-air spray- 
ers on the market. 



17 

pour the two solutions into the third vessel at the same time, stirring 
constantly to insure thorough mixing. Always stir the Bordeaux 
before putting it into the sprayer. 

To be of value, spraying must be thoroughly done. The spray 
mixture must cover both the under and upper sides of the leaves. 

For the tenth acre, a bucket spray pump -costing about $3 or a 
knapsack sprayer costing about |5 will be satisfactory. Compressed- 
air sprayers (fig. 22), in which air pressure is developed by means 
of a pump and the liquid released when desired are a very effective 
type. Every farmer should have a small sprayer, as it can be used 
for many purposes and will more than pay for itself in one year. 
AVash the spray pump thoroughly after each using. 





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Fig. 23. — Rows 1 and 3 resistant varieties on wilt-infested land; rows 2 and 4 
susceptible varieties killed by wilt. 

WILT-RESISTANT TOMATOES. 

If any part of your farm is infested with the wilt fungus, use 
wilt-resistant varieties, as they produce a good crop of fruit on 
wilt-infested land when other varieties die of the disease (fig. 23). 

You will find on the next page a chart which gives the distinguish- 
ing characters of some of the more important diseases of the tomato 
and ways of preventing them. 



Sincerely yours, 



Ola Powell, 
Assistant In Home Demonstration Work. 



18 






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